From the 12th century onward, as medieval society became more structured and fashion more refined, underwear also evolved in complexity and variety.

Men’s Undergarments

Men’s underwear generally consisted of two main garments: the shirt (chemise) and braies (breeches).

• Shirt (Chemise): By the High Middle Ages (12th–13th centuries), men’s shirts became more tailored. They might have narrow sleeves and were worn tucked into the braies or hose.
   

• Braies: Braies evolved from loose shorts to more fitted linen underpants. In some cases, they covered the upper legs and tied or buttoned at the waist. Soldiers and knights often wore braies under their armor for comfort.
   

• Hose: Over the braies, men wore hose — close-fitting leg coverings made from wool or silk, tied or sewn to the braies or belts.
   

Women’s Undergarments

Women’s medieval underwear remained centered on the chemise, but variations emerged.

• Chemise/Smock: Women’s chemises were often ankle-length, loose, and made from fine linen. They functioned as underwear and nightwear, and were usually the only garment in direct contact with the skin.
   

• Kirtle: Although not strictly underwear, women often wore a kirtle over the chemise, a fitted garment that could be worn under a gown or dress. It sometimes functioned like a slip or corset, offering shape and support.
   

• Underskirts: In later medieval fashion, women began layering underskirts beneath their dresses for warmth and to add volume.
   

The Shift Towards Layering

As the medieval period progressed, layering became more common, especially among the wealthy. Underwear was not simply a single garment but part of a system designed for comfort, modesty, and sometimes hygiene.

• Multiple Layers: A typical noblewoman might wear a linen chemise, a kirtle, multiple skirts, and a gown on top, while men layered their shirts, braies, hose, and surcoats or doublets.
   

• Material Choices: Linen remained the primary fabric for underwear because it was washable and soft. Wool and silk were generally reserved for outer garments due to their cost and texture. shutdown123